Sea, rock and madness in Greenland!

Home  /  News  /  Big Walls  /  Current Page
×Details

UPDATE : VIDEO EPISODEs & MOVIE!
We are slowly adjusting back to the normal life after 3 months of madness in Greenland… This was definitely one of our wildest adventures so far.

The combination of sailing and climbing was perfect except for a few meals wasted overboard! But the good thing is that it kept us light for the climbing;) The atmosphere of sailing through huge Icebergs was absolutely incredible and being able to climb virgin big walls right off the sailboat in such a wild place felt unreal.

Our trip first started in Asiaat, up on the West coast of Greenland, where Bob had wintered his Boat. From there, it took us 5 days of scenic sailing in order for us to reach Upernavick, the area where are the walls our Captain Bob had promised to bring us to. We spent about one month in this area taking full advantage of the boat to climb big walls that are raising straight out of the ocean. All the climbs in the area provided a lot of adventure. The difficulties included lots of grass in the cracks, thick lichen smearing and fighting with seagulls vomiting on us. It made it very challenging to climb onsight and any pitch no matter the technical difficulty was always a real challenge! We put up 4 big routes in this area.

On our way back to Scotland down the West coast of Greenland we stopped in the very southern tip of Greenland for more climbing. It’s a more alpine environment with mountains and glaciers covered with endless granite spires. The rock is really clean with perfect cracks. Certain routes we put up were so clean we could have never guessed it was a FA or a 50th repeat. It was a nice contrast after the adventures in Upernavick area.

After 10 days in this area and 5 beautiful new routes each put up in push, our Captain decided it was time to commit to the Atlantic crossing. It took us 15 days without seeing any land to reach Scotland. After 5 days we were half way and after 10 days, a lot of head winds and a few storms, we were still barely over half way. While sailing everything was happening all around us, i.e.: everything and nothing. There was mostly salt water, rain, waves in our faces and occasionally visits of birds, whales and dolphins, which we always appreciated very much. Sailing has much in common with rock climbing, and the combination of the two was amazing. Definitely something to do again!

We filmed the whole adventure with two small HD Camera so Yes… We are planning on making a movie about this. Just be patient because 60h of raw footage will be lots of work for people of the wild like us;)

I hope you enjoyed our stories trough our blog : www.xpedition.be

Many thanks to all my sponsors for supporting us on this adventure: Belgian Alpine Club, Patagonia, Five Ten, Black Diamond, Seeonee, Yeti, Sterling rope, Careplus, Julbo, Belclimb.net, Climb.be.

Have fun

Nico

Upernavik area

  • July 2nd :FFA Red Chili Crackers 350m 5.12- R on the Red wall (that’s how we called it/probably the first ascent of the wall) – team : Olivier and Sean
  • July 2nd : FFA Seagull’s garden 400m 5.11 on the Red wall – one bolt was placed on lead to protect a slab( the only bolt we placed on the expedition)
    – Team : Ben and Nico
  • TOPO & LOCATION

  • July 6 : FFA Brown balls wall 400m 5.12- (all free except for a 10 meter very wet and dirty section which would not be hard to freeclimb in good conditions) on the Brown balls wall (that’s how we called it/ probably the first ascent of the wall) – team : Olivier and Ben first 3 pitches / Nico and Sean the rest.
  • TOPO & LOCATION

  • July 11-22 : FFA Devil’s brew 850m 5.12+ on the impossible wall( that’s how we called it/ probably the first ascent of the wall) – 11 days/ 3 portaledge camps (no bolts) – Team : Olivier, Nico, Ben and SEan We topped out with everything and walked down the back side.
    TOPO & LOCATION
    Cape farewell Area
  • August 16 : FFA Corned beef 450m 5.11 on Shepton Spire (that’s how we called the spire- not sure if it was the FA of the spire) then climbed a very scenic ridge leading to the summit of another spire on the East side of Shepton spire- Team : Ben and Sean
  • ugust 16 : FFA condensed milk 450m 5.11 on Shepton spire then climbed a very scenic ridge leading to the summit of another spire on the East side of Shepton spire – team : Nico and Olivier
  • August 20 : FFA Never again 500m 5.10 on Angnikitsoq ( not sure if it was the FA of the wall) – team Bob Shepton, Sean and Nico
  • August 21 : FFA Chloe 550m 5.11+ OW(offwidth) Angegoq Tower on Quvernit Island then followed the ridge the summit of Morel Tower and then the summit of Asiaq Tower – team : Olivier and Sean
  • TOPO & LOCATION

  • August 21 : FFA (one pitch was freed on toprope due to a scary fall with a rock) The Chinese Gibe 550m 5.11+ OW (offwidth) Angegoq Tower on Quvernit Island then followed the ridge the summit of Morel Tower and then the summit of Asiaq Tower – Team : Ben and Nico ( we found one bolt and a couple of rap anchors on the lower part of the wall so we are not really sure of what was done before, we found no info about who placed the bolt)
+Gallery
+Share
+Comments

Leave a Reply