I have spent the last months an a half around Siurana with my girlfriend Argyro. When we first arrived mid-december, I was completely out of shape after a months period of lectures all over Europe with our movie "Vertical Sailing Greenland" but day by day the fingers started closing better on the small holds and the shape came back. The last two weeks I managed to complete 4 beautiful routes : Lolla Corwin 8c, Pati noso 8c, l’Odi Social 8c+ and Chikane 8c+. Also Argyro climbed her first 7C+’s and soon 8a.

Finally we found some time within our very busy climbing schedule to finalize the Vertical Sailing Greenland Dvd. I hope you’ll enjoy it! Sorry for the delay;)

Four climber-musicians and 75 year-old Reverend Capitain Bob set salon the west coast of Greenland on a search for unclimbed walls. " Do not return without the summit!" the captain yells as they set off on a vertical ocean of granite. The Impossible Wall is so steep, wild and intimidating that it is deemed impossible to climb. With no sunset, no sunrise and no brains, these warriors get lost in a sea of time, and slowly start to run out of food. After two and a half months of sailing and climbing in Greenland, they sail the ten-meter Dodo’s Delight across the gargantuan Atlantic Ocean and face the infinite salt water, bad weather and vomit. Prepare to suffer!

Here is a little Video Bernardo Gimenez made from the route Orbayu which I repeated last summer with Adam Pustelnik. Adam’s unfortunate accident shorten the trip and so we had to quit our main project which was to free another line o the same wall. Bernardo hadn’t planed to make a video out of this but still made a great job! Enjoy!

A few days of rest after Salathe wall, cragging down low in the valley floor, Sean and I put our force together for an attempt to explore the potential of a new free line on the right side of El cap. That was our main target for this season. As usual we preferred not to inspect too much with Binocular as we prefer to stay away from too much assumptions. The line seemed obvious from the meadow, it’s a huge traversing feature that goes crosses a pretty big part of that side(it crosses about 15 different routes!).

After having climbed the Nose with Belgian TV Star Tom Waes, it was time to get into the real business. My girlfriend Argyro who had never come to Yosemite joined and I decided to do her big wall baptize on the Salathe wall which is mega classic and I had never tried to free. It must have been the hardest big wall when it was first freed. Now it is for sure still a benchmark for hard big wall free climbing.