Baffin expedition dispatch #6

Posted September 21, 2014  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

How could we describe the feeling of taking our first shower in over two months? Mmmm…Well yes … We have just hit civilization in Greenland. These last 3 weeks has been very exciting in many ways! Adventurous climbing, a close polar bear encounter ( without anything to defend ourselves) and a very scary crossing back …

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Baffin expedition dispatch #5

Posted September 6, 2014  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

3 weeks have passed now since we arrived in Baffin Island. Our first encounter with the local population already happened miles away from the coast we met 8 polar bears drifting on chunks of pack ice. It was quite a surprise running into them while weaving through dismantling pack ice in thick mist. After a …

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Baffin expedition dispatch #4

Posted August 1, 2014  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Hello Everyone, Greetings again from Greenland! It’s raining but we aren’t sleeping in today! The Ice chart we received yesterday showed a very positive evolution in the ice melting over on Baffin island so we are very excited. Now it’s time for us to get ready to cross Baffin bay. We have just refilled in …

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Baffin expedition dispatch #3

Posted July 23, 2014  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Hello to all, Greetings from Greenland! We are sheltered in a nice little bay behind Umanak island. For the past three days the wind has been blowing,  making up for some nice sailing adventures.  A few days ago, our peaceful anchorage by some steep walls became more like a washing machine,  throwing the boat in …

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Baffin expedition dispatch #2

Posted July 14, 2014  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Hello everyone, A week has passed since we left Aasiaat! We have had good moments so far but also harder ones. Yes indeed we missed the soccer world cup final and the ice hasn’t melted enough for us to cross to Baffin Island side! Our captain is becoming very impatient and we are afraid that …

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Baffin expedition dispatch #1

Posted July 6, 2014  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

6 July Yeahhh!!! We are off again to an exciting adventure! We have just landed to Aasiaat in Greenland and are currently busy loading Dodo’s delight, our 10 m fiber glass sailboat which will consist off our musical studio for the next 2 to 3 months.  Reverend captain Bob Shepton is very excited to have …

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Free on Kyzyl Asker, China.

Posted November 12, 2013  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

A few weeks ago Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens, Evrard Wendenbaum and I came back from our “Chinajam” expedition in the western Kokshal-tau mountain, China. It was again a very powerful experience and also very different from any other expeditions we have done before. It was a lot more alpine than what we were excepting. There …

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Posted August 26, 2013  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Hello guys! I hope summer went well for all of you. Here finally the adventure is about to start! I have just landed in China with Sean Villanueva and Stephane Hanssens. It was a very painful and frustrating decision when in early july we canceled our initial plan due to the terrorist attack in Pakistan. …

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Crack project in Norway finally sent!

Posted June 6, 2013  /   Background - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

I finally sent my long-term king line crack project in Norway last Wednesday! Now I feel so happy and complete;) It’s certainly one of the coolest lines I have ever climbed and the hardest crack I have ever redpointed! Daniel Jung, my brother Olivier, Bernardo Gimenez and I first found the line last summer while …

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Vacunamatata, a newborn in Siurana!

Posted February 2, 2013  /   News - Top Climbs  /  3 Comments

I am happy to announce you I finally sent the project I bolted last year in Campi qui pugui sector in Siurana, Spain. It’s the straight up exit of a route called Chikane which I redpointed last year. When Chikane traverse a couple meters right to join some bigger features, Vaccunamatata keeps going straight up …

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Crack project left in Norway!

Posted December 26, 2012  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

Here are some images of my last exploring trip to Norway! With my brother Oli and Daniel Jung, we found an amazing overhanging crack project. We spent about 3 weeks working together on it, solving each moves of the puzzle. The weather didn’t really cooperate as it rained everyday (except for one) in 3 weeks …

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Jungle Jam Venezuela, the film !

Posted November 12, 2012  /   News - Movies  /  4 Comments

NOW AVAILABLE – ONLINE DOWNLOAD! “Four young men, lost in the middle of the Amazon jungle of Venezuela, on a mission to free climb the 500m overhanging face of Amuri Tepuy. Wild animals, biting insects, backbreaking approach, crazy nights on a portaledge, musical concerts to the sound of a giant waterfall, sweaty climbing, precarious falls, …

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Speed repeated!

Posted August 26, 2012  /   News - Top Climbs  /  1 Comment

I have just repeated Speed 8c+ in Voralpsee, Switzerland. I am so psyched! I finally sent this amazing historical route! It took me 12 days to do it. It’s probably the longest I have spent on a sport-climb. The warm temperatures of the summer and the sharp holds didn’t really help either but the route …

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Two new free routes on Amuri Tepui, Venezuela

Posted April 15, 2012  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens, Jean-Louis Wertz and I just came back to civilization after 38 days in the jungle. We had a really good adventure, very different from all the other expeditions we have done in the past. The weather, the rock, the jungle, the indigenes, the animals and this incredible wall of the Tuyuren …

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Siurana on the road to Venezuela

Posted April 1, 2012  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

I have spent the last months an a half around Siurana with my girlfriend Argyro. When we first arrived mid-december, I was completely out of shape after a months period of lectures all over Europe with our movie “Vertical Sailing Greenland” but day by day the fingers started closing better on the small holds and …

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Vertical sailing Greenland DVD available now!

Posted November 24, 2011  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Finally we found some time within our very busy climbing schedule to finalize the Vertical Sailing Greenland Dvd. I hope you’ll enjoy it! Sorry for the delay;) Four climber-musicians and 75 year-old Reverend Capitain Bob set salon the west coast of Greenland on a search for unclimbed walls. ” Do not return without the summit!” …

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Orbayu… a Video by Bernardo Gimenez

Posted November 7, 2011  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

Here is a little Video Bernardo Gimenez made from the route Orbayu which I repeated last summer with Adam Pustelnik. Adam’s unfortunate accident shorten the trip and so we had to quit our main project which was to free another line o the same wall. Bernardo hadn’t planed to make a video out of this …

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El cap exploration

Posted November 1, 2011  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

A few days of rest after Salathe wall, cragging down low in the valley floor, Sean and I put our force together for an attempt to explore the potential of a new free line on the right side of El cap. That was our main target for this season. As usual we preferred not to …

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Salathe wall free after all

Posted October 1, 2011  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

After having climbed the Nose with Belgian TV Star Tom Waes, it was time to get into the real business. My girlfriend Argyro who had never come to Yosemite joined and I decided to do her big wall baptize on the Salathe wall which is mega classic and I had never tried to free. It …

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Orbayu repeated and Adam in the Hospital!

Posted August 15, 2011  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

UPDATE : VIDEO OF ORBAYU! We (Adam Pustelnik and Nicolas Favresse) are very happy to announce you that we just repeated Orbayu in Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de europa, Spain. We needed 3 days for Nico and 4 days for Adam and Nico again to climb free everypitch of the route ground up in a …

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Vertical sailing Greenland… the film!

Posted July 19, 2011  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

In the search of virgin Big walls, the Belgian musical trio Nico & Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and their American Friend Ben Ditto will bring you along their latest climbing and sailing adventure in Greenland with Capitain Bob Shepton, a 75 year retired priest! Buy Vertical sailing Greenland movie More info about the expedition Asgard …

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Piolet d’or!

Posted April 22, 2011  /   News  /  0 Comments

I am very happy to announce you that me and my partners (my brother Olivier, Sean Villanueva, Ben ditto and Reverend Bob Shepton) have just received the piolet d’or for our expedition in Greenland last summer. It is reputed to be the most prestigious mountain award! We are very surprised to have been first of …

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Onsight free ascent of the East face of Fitz Roy!

Posted February 1, 2011  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

In a 36-hour roundtrip push from base camp on February 19–20, 2011, Sean Villanueva and I made an onsight free ascent of the east face of Fitz Roy. We mostly followed El Corazon, but to avoid some wet rock we started with the closest good-looking dry line, which was the Ferrari Route. We followed it …

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“La reina Mora” a Video by Bernardo Gimenez

Posted September 11, 2010  /   Movies - Top Climbs  /  1 Comment

Here is little video made by Bernardo Gimenez who captured my ascent of “La Reina Mora” in El Pati sector of Siurana, Spain. Enjoy! Thanks Bernardo Nico VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Nico Favresse on La Reina Mora (8c+) in Siurana, Spain from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

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Sea, rock and madness in Greenland!

Posted August 22, 2010  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

UPDATE : VIDEO EPISODEs & MOVIE! We are slowly adjusting back to the normal life after 3 months of madness in Greenland… This was definitely one of our wildest adventures so far. The combination of sailing and climbing was perfect except for a few meals wasted overboard! But the good thing is that it kept …

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Spring time sport climbing action.

Posted June 20, 2010  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

I am just back from sportclimbing in Catalunya on my way to Greenland. I had mainly bouldered throughout the whole winter so it was a nice transition to get back on the rope and get fit before hitting bigger walls in Greenland. New video by Bernardo! The highlight of the trip for me was many …

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Five awards for “Asgard Jamming”!

Posted June 14, 2010  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

I very happy to inform you that our film “Asgard Jamming” has been very successful for receiving awards at mountain film festival. *Mario bello awards & Audience award in the alpinism category at the Trento film festival * Audience award at the Mendi film festival * Best climbing film & Audience award at the Mountain …

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“Free south Africa” Video

Posted November 11, 2009  /   News - Movies  /  1 Comment

This is a small video following Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse and Ben Ditto on the first free ascent of the east face of the central tower of Torres del Paine via “the South African Route” 5.12c/7b+ 1200m. TOPO & LOCATION Enjoy! Editing : Sean Villanueva Filming : Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto and Nicolas Favresse

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“Asgard Jamming” the trailer & movie available for sale!

Posted October 13, 2009  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

45 days, 0 nights, 600km on foot, 4 guys, 1 girl,… and the polar bears… “Asagard Jamming” follows Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens, Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse and Silvia Vidal in the exploration of big wall free climbing in Baffin Island, Canadian Arctic. Here is their expedition report Here you can find out how to buy …

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The power of jam

Posted September 13, 2009  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva spent four months in fall 2008 traveling western North America (the pair are from Belgium) with their climbing gear, a mandolin, a tin whistle and a penchant for hitchhiking. From Squamish to the Bugaboos to Yosemite to Indian Creek they did bold repeats, set new routes and played many jam …

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Amazing free climbing in Baffin island!

Posted August 1, 2009  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens , Olivier Favresse and I have just come back from a expedition to Baffin Island. We had an awesome trip! Free climbing on Baffin is amazing and the potential for free climbing and first ascents seems endless. Update : “Asgard Jamming” Trailer & buy full movie Our main target was to …

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Getting fit for Baffin Island in the Ratikon!

Posted June 13, 2009  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

As his last bit of training before his expedition to Baffin Island, Nico climbed some multi-pitch routes in the Ratikon, Switzerland with Polish Adam Pustelnick. The pair didn’t wait long to try the very famous route Silbergeier 8b 200m . And after some trouble with weather conditions and the route being partly wet, Nico managed …

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First free ascent of the east face of the central tower of Torres del Paine via “the South African Route” 5.12c/7b+ 1200m.

Posted February 14, 2009  /   News  /  0 Comments

We (Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto) just came back from Torres Del Paine National Park where on the 2nd of february we summitted the central tower via the South African Route. Our ascent is possibly the third ascent of the route and the first free ascent of the east face of the central …

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South African route movie clips

Posted February 13, 2009  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

TOPO & LOCATION The weather is clearing up after a storm. Jamming up high on the route. Hanging out in the portaledges. Free South Africa Video

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The secret passage – new free route on El capitan Yosemite

Posted October 15, 2008  /   News  /  0 Comments

Sean Villanueva and I have just freed a new route on El capitain!!!! We just came down last Friday (10 of October) after 5 days on the wall. It’s for sure one of my best climbing accomplishment and strongest climbing experience. All my years of climbing experience seem to have blended together to brew this …

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Bad weather in the Bugaboos… What to do to bring back the sunshine?

Posted August 20, 2008  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

It’s raining and snowing hard outside our tent…. little lakes are being fired down from the sky, days without end… there’s only one way to bring the sun back… you know it needs to be done… Here is just a small sample video from hours and hours of jamming :

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Nico does the second ascent of the Cobra Crack, 5-14 trad, Squamish, Canada

Posted July 30, 2008  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

Friday july 18, Nicolas Favresse managed the first repeat of the much-tried Cobra crack (placing the gear on lead.). After one brief attempt three years earlier, Nico spent eight days on the route this summer, making 15 attempts in all. The climb is about 30 meter long with its crux part consisting of a 10meter …

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First repeat of “Greenspit”, 8b+ traditional roof crack in val de l’Orco, North Italy.

Posted May 15, 2008  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

Nicolas Favresse repeats “Greenspit” a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to redpoint the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send. The route consisted on a 12-meter roof crack with lots of tricky crack climbing moves mixing hand, fists …

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Pakistan project, the film!

Posted January 16, 2008  /   News  /  0 Comments

The film of my expedition to Pakistan is finally done! Along with Sean Villanueva and my brother we have started a showing tour. The film follows the team in the ascent of virgin big walls in Charakusa valley, Pakistan. We have created a book with the best images of the expedition plus some personal stories …

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First ascent of “Thin Ice” 8b+/c and repeat of “Natural present” 8c/c+

Posted January 4, 2008  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

Happy new year! For Nico, 2007 finished not too bad in Arco. He sent an old, unfinished project bolted by the local Rolando Larcher in Terlago. The route is called now “Thin Ice” and ranges at the dificulty of 8b+/c for 25 meters of vertical climbing on razorblades. Nico also made the first repeat of …

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Nico does the first ascent of Inshallah 8c or 8c+, a route he calls, “One of the best sport climbs I have ever done.”

Posted November 16, 2007  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

In late October, Nicolas made the first ascent of Inshallah in Kalymnos. After bolting this route on a spring stay on the legendary Greek island, Nico had to leave it behind for the summer, not having the time to really work or send the project. After his expedition to Pakistan, several weeks of recuperation (basically …

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First ascents of huge walls sent free in Charakusa valley, Pakistan

Posted August 28, 2007  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

During a 2-month trip to Pakistan, we (three Belgian climbers, Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse and his brother Olivier Favresse, member of the CAB-RCT (rock climbing team) and strong Polish climber, Adam Pustelnik, put up two new huge free climbs in Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The idea to go there emerged when we read about Charakusa’s huge …

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Nico on an onsighting spree

Posted June 29, 2007  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

With his van back on the road with a brand new motor (please no more mechanical problems!), Nicolas couldn’t wait to visit Siurana, Rodellar and Gorge du Tarn. Feeling in his optimal sport climbing shape, Nico was able to express himself fully on a binge of challenging onsights. During the month, he accomplished onsight ascents …

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Nico sends a new contender for the hardest route in Kalymnos!

Posted May 29, 2007  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

At the end of a month-long trip to Kalymnos (Greece), Nico had a great day of performance climbing. After 10 days working on “Gora guta gutarak”, an open project located at the sector Odyssey, he finally managed the first ascent of this new power test piece! On the 4th day working the line he fell …

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Nicolas, the new Belgian lead climbing champion!

Posted March 29, 2007  /   News  /  0 Comments

On the 24th of March, Nicolas became the Belgian lead climbing champion for his sixth time. Since 2000 Nico has won every national championship except for in 2006 when he was away climbing on the big walls of Patagonia!

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New free route on El capitain – “Lost in Transletion” 10 pitches about 400 meters 5.12b/c (7b+) R.

Posted September 29, 2006  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

On August 30th and September 1st, in a 27-hour push, Ivo Ninov and Nicolas Favresse opened a new free route on El Capitan, Yosemite. After years of searching by climbers for free climbing on El Capitan, what were the odds of them finding a moderate free climb up on the big stone? Ivo : “Seven …

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5.14a (8b+) traditional

Posted September 4, 2006  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

Nicolas Favresse redpointed an amazing crack called “Father’s day” 8b+ on gear at the Star Wall, Donner Summit, California. The route was originally put up as a mixed bolts/trad route with the first part a 7c+ trad-protected crack called “Star Crack” and a bolted extension increasing the difficulty to 8b+. But Nicolas didn’t need to …

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Repeat of “Riders in the storm” (36 pitches 7c – A3 – 1200m – grade VII)

Posted April 1, 2006  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Sean Villaneuva, Michael Lecomte, Oliver and Nicolas Favresse, have just repeated the exceptional route “Riders in the storm” (36 pitches 7c – A3 – 1200m – grade VII). TOPO & LOCATION This amazing route is located in the “Torres del Paine”, Patagonia, Chile. It was opened in 1991 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich, Bernd Arnold, …

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4 New videos!

Posted February 16, 2006  /   News - Movies  /  0 Comments

Check out the new videos : *Pitch 15/7c of Riders in the storm *An attempt on Royal Flush, Fitz roy *When big wall climbing hits the brain! * The trailer of the movie “Patagonia Dreams” Related news

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First ascent of l’Appât (12 pitches – 8a – 450m – grade VI)

Posted September 29, 2005  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

Belgian Nicolas Favresse has free-climbed a major new route in Yosemite Valley without adding any new fixed protection. Nicolas, 25, worked for a month on L’Appât (VI 5.13a), the first free route up a big wall about 200 feet right of Yosemite Falls. (L’Appât means the “bait” or “lure” in French.) Nicolas climbed the route …

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Urban climbing in Brussels

Posted June 29, 2005  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

To mark the event of a “Saving” campaign by Fintro Bank in Brussels, I was invited to climb the headquarters building of the bank, right in the center of the city. It was quite a nice piece of climbing: 110 meters of vertical face with challenging moves between glass windows and sharp metal rail edges …

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8c+ and hard Onsights

Posted January 29, 2005  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

During a short trip to El Chorro, Spain, Nicolas onsighted six routes graded 8a, one 8a+ and “Swimming Through A Shark Attack” 8a+/b. In addition to his onsight performances on this trip, he also bagged a quick ascent of “Que Trabaje Rita” 8c+.

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Yosemite – “Free Rider” (36 pitches – 5-12d (7c) – 1000 m – grade VI)

Posted October 29, 2004  /   News - Big Walls  /  0 Comments

After three weeks of learning how to trad climb, Nicolas and his friend Sean Villanueva managed to free “Free Rider” (5-12d – 1000 meters) in a five-day single push as their first Big wall. “{{How did you get the idea to try Free Rider?}}” “I have always been interested in discovering other ways of climbing, …

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Estado Critico, Nico’s First 9a!

Posted May 15, 2004  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

Nicolas Favresse sent his first 9a with the route “Estado Critico” in Siurana, Spain. Doing this, he became the first rock climber of the Benelux to have passed this barrier and to have reached a level attained by only a handful of people in the world! Nico was quite fast in sending the route, taking …

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First 8b Onsight for Nicolas!

Posted September 29, 2002  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

At the end of a summer road trip in Spain, Nicolas Favresse onsighted his first 8b, “Florida” at Rodellar. Besides his premier performance, Nico managed to do the first ascent of two 8c open projects: “Pata Negra” in three attempts and “Geminis”. He also redpointed two 8c’s, “Welcome to Tijuana” and “Honky Tonky”, as well …

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Le Clou 8c, the hardest route in Belgium?

Posted March 29, 2002  /   News - Top Climbs  /  0 Comments

The 22-year old Belgian, Nicolas Favresse, has recently freed “Le Clou”, an 8c that could stand as the hardest route in the country. The route is located at Freyr, which, with over 600 routes from 3 to 8c, is the most important crag in Belgium. Le Clou follows Tartines de Clous (7b) then continues up …

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