Vacunamatata, a newborn in Siurana!

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I am happy to announce you I finally sent the project I bolted last year in Campi qui pugui sector in Siurana, Spain. It’s the straight up exit of a route called Chikane which I redpointed last year. When Chikane traverse a couple meters right to join some bigger features, Vaccunamatata keeps going straight up in the middle of what may appear like “no holds land”. But with a few sessions of work and faith the holds appeared and all the piece of the puzzle needed just to be put together. The crux move was very tricky with feet position and uses a very small right hand hold which happened to like eating skin. It didn’t allow me to try the move so much. In fact the only time I really did this move was while sending the route which made up for a quite unique feeling! It adds about 10 meters of sustain and very technical climbing and share the same finish as the route to the left.
Here is the explanation for the name!

On a less happy note, I would like to take this opportunity to share some discovery I made while trying some newly bolted routes in Siurana. Siurana has been at the top of the development of sport climbing since almost the beginning. Thanks to the ethic of climbers who develop this area, almost all routes are completely natural except for a few historical ones. I am personally quite sure this is a big reason why Siurana is still today such a great cliff and at the top of the game with harder routes appearing every year and still a great potential for a lot more. Unfortunately very recently some people have started putting up routes with the use of chipped holds and overuse of sika. Actually a lot of the time sika is used to hide the chipping. It completely ruins the potential of Siurana.

Good luck on your projects!


Nico on the last hard moves of Vacunamatata last year.

  1. L0ow' says:

    Pffff déprimant l’histoire des prises… Bravo sinon pour Vacunamatata !! Par contre, le lien vers la signification du nom est-il le bon ? Je ne trouve pas l’explication… Je suppose que ça vient du fameux “HAKUNA MATATA”… Mais pourquoi ?! 😉

  2. Very good Nico!

    Un saludos desde Chile.

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