5.14a (8b+) traditional

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Nicolas Favresse redpointed an amazing crack called “Father’s day” 8b+ on gear at the Star Wall, Donner Summit, California. The route was originally put up as a mixed bolts/trad route with the first part a 7c+ trad-protected crack called “Star Crack” and a bolted extension increasing the difficulty to 8b+. But Nicolas didn’t need to use bolts to do it.

Nicolas’s comment >

“When I went to the Star Wall for the first time I felt very attracted to the line. It follows a striking 90-foot overhanging crack. Over the summer, I got back in shape sending routes around Donner Summit. A time came when I felt the physical and mental strength to try this route. Locals had told me that the climb had been done once all on gear by Alan Moore.

The challenge of climbing it on gear attracted me since the route is so pure, clean and logical. It felt as if climbing it on gear would be an homage to the beauty of this line. I checked it out myself and decided to work on it. I quickly learned that the challenge was that I can’t place gear on the crux and that I have to commit the hardest moves with my last piece way below my feet forcing me to take big falls up to 15 meters long. Also in order to have good gear I had to put protection in essential hand-holds, so I had to do some harder moves. On my fifth day on the climb I sent it, placing the gear as I went up.”


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